In the heart of Dalmatian coastline, nestled amidst rolling hills and embracing nature’s beauty, lies the captivating village of Zadvarje. Here, the past whispers through ancient stones and dances in the wind, painting a portrait of a community deeply rooted in its heritage. At the heart of this cherished legacy is the traditional county fair – a cherished event that not only reveres the village origins but weaves the very fabric of community spirit and togetherness of the whole county. The fair, taken under account of the written trace of archbishop Cupili, has over 300 year-old legacy.
I’s been a while since I visited this fair, under completely different circumstances. As winter is knocking on our doors, I took a chance last Tuesday to go there. Recently, we were surprised with a couple of strong Bura winds, otherwise our trademark wind, that usually activates in December, growing stronger and showing its best in March, so I was pleasantly surprised it started again just as I left.
Having Bura as our companion on very attractive road from Split to Zadvarje only gave me additional topic to write about. Since road goes across Vruja and Dubci pass, it set like fish in water.
The Bura Wind: A Force of Nature Unleashed
As I was driving along the Brač channel to Vruja, I saw in the distance that it smokes well, as locals say here. Because of difference in pressure, the wind picks up in speed, creating this cloudy cap you see in the mountains.
The Bura is no ordinary wind; it is a formidable and legendary force that descends from the mountainous heights of Velebit & Biokovo with a vigor that commands attention. Originating from the cold continental air masses of Eastern Europe, it gains strength as it funnels through the canyons and valleys, reaching its peak intensity as it descends towards the Adriatic coast. She is well-known all the way from Trieste, where it has her own museum, all the way to Dubrovnik.
Before I approached Vruja and felt the true gale force of the wind, I decided to descend to a small, picturesque village below the road, just to see Bura raising the sea as it descends from the infamous Dubci.
Bura picks up tiny droplets of sea, creating this smokey-effect.
Arriving on Vruja, and climbing over Dubci pass, which splits Omiška Dinara [I wrote about in my past blog] and Biokovo mountains, the wind picked up whistling at her strongest, making it impossible to get out of the car without risking losing your door, so I took this shot from the car and pressed on.
After 100 meters, I changed my mind and decided to risk it a bit. Dancing with Bura is something not to be missed. Please lower your tone before playing this video.
Vruja, Bura and Dubci: Sculpting the Landscape
Vruja (or Vrilo) is a typical Croatian word for water source emerging from the groun, but here is used for this funnel-shaped coastal indentation next to the sea because of immense water sources in its bay. It is a protected natural area reserve, with an attractive limestone landscape, the attractiveness of which lies in its untouched gray harshness, while any construction and afforestation is excluded. It’s a place imbedded it local legends, myths and stories that were passed on through generations. Many writers have written about Vruja through history, from Constantinus Porphyrogenites and Alberto Fortis, to the modern day poets as Josip Pupačić.
Vruja also hides one of the prettiest Croatian beaches, completely untouched. Of course, we can thank the severeness of the terrain for that.
With its rugged terrain and towering peaks, this coastal mountain chain acts as a natural guardian to the Bura wind. As this powerful force descends from the mountain slopes, it sculpts the landscape in its own way. The wind’s persistent gusts have shaped the rocks and cliffs over centuries, leaving behind a testament to the enduring dance between nature and the elements.
For the inhabitants of the Biokovo area, the Bura wind is not merely a meteorological phenomenon; it is a way of life.
Despite its tempestuous nature, the Bura wind brings a unique blessing to the Biokovo region. Its arrival is often accompanied by clear skies and a refreshing crispness to the air. The wind sweeps away the coastal humidity, offering moments of clarity and breathtaking visibility that reveal the full grandeur of the central Dalmatian archipelago.
Cultural diversity of Croatian coastline follows its geographic distinction. While some typically Mediterranean coastal areas are wide, here, the mountains plunge directly into the sea, bringing the hinterland much, much closer to the coast.
While the strength of Bura poses challenges, such as disruptions in transportation and the need for sturdy infrastructure, the locals have learned to adapt and harness its power. Traditional stone houses, with their sturdy construction, stand as a testament to the resilience of the communities that have coexisted with the Bura for generations.
Speaking of the hinterland, I soon crossed to the other side, and with Bura suddenly disappearing, Zadvarje came into focus. It’s history is a living tale of fortitude and hardship, endurance and the embrace of tradition. Its story winds through time, back to epochs when the world moved slower, and connection between land and sea was not merely a choice, but a necessity.
Zadvarje got its name according to the old Indo-European and Slavic word dhwer or dveri, which meant a passage or a door, so the literally translated name to English would be Behind-passage (Za-behind, dvarje-passage)
A 17th century map of Zadvarje area showing Vruja and Duare Fortress by Vicenzo Coronelli, a Venetian Fransciscan friar, cartographer and encyclopedist. The area shows the ancient Radobilja County.
A Celebration of Time: The Traditional County Fair
Amidst this living chronicle, Zadvarje’s traditional county fair stands as a beacon of timelessness. This weekly spectacle is a symphony of tradition and festivity, where villagers and wanderers alike gather to witness history come alive.
In a kaleidoscope of colors, the fair unfolds its treasures. Farmers, guardians of the land’s secrets, present their produce with pride.
This fair is specific not only because of its schedule, but its place as well. While most fairs are held in the open space, this one is positioned along the main road, so feeling a rearview mirror against your back is a part of the charm.
Ancient traces of drive-in still in practice
Artisans, carrying the torch of creativity from their forebears, present their masterpieces. Handwoven baskets tell tales of skilled hands and patient hours, while intricate textiles bear witness to generations of artistry.
Most of all, there were many collectors of various memorabilia, from ancient coins or vintage cameras to all kinds of weird objects.
A medal from the 19th century Swiss standard gauge rack railway
One very interesting encounter with a local memorabilia dealer, a highly knowledgeable person I learned a lot from.
Some potentially very nice vintage house decorative elements
Newly-,made peka lids waiting for new owners. We say here no house is a house without a hearth, peka and grill – place for socializing
Domesticly-dried meat delicacies and bread under peka
Ever-present Mare with her tasty uštipci (fritters) from Sinj. Wherever there is festivity – there is Mare with her fritters. Our guests have enjoyed her fritters many times.
Yet, the fair is not solely a feast for the eyes. It’s a banquet for the senses. Traditional Croatian delicacies grace the tables, each dish an ode to flavors handed down through time. The aroma of roasted meat, traditional stew, and the sweetness of fritters, evoke memories of ancestral kitchens, so we got kind of hungry from all of that.
Nothing better than a savory veal peka with potatoes
But it’s more than just sights, sounds, and tastes. It’s an immersion into the soul of Zadvarje. Just following lunch, we hear folk singing breathing new life into the atmosphere, people turning heads, listening, smiling. So little is necessary swing our moods for the much better; a smile with a sincere tone does it best, making this fair a tapestry of human connections. It’s a time for people to rediscover the joy of shared laughter, for the young to learn their lineage’s tapestry, and for strangers to become friends under the spell of tradition.
Safeguarding material Treasures: Zadvarje’s Enduring Legacy
Yet, beyond the festivities, just above the fair, there is an old village with a fortress jutting above. I remember the time I was a boy when I went with my family to my aunt’s house, so I decided to take a look at it now and see the changes.
Duare Fortress sitting just above the village. Like many older settlements, Zadvarje also emerged inside, outside and around the fortification element.
The fortress was constructed due to the Ottoman resistance in the 15th Century. Triangular is its plan, it had all one fortress should have, a well, powder magazines, residential parts, watchtowers, etc.
The reason for the construction on this position is obvious. Overlooking the whole wider inland area.
Coming down from the fortress, just above the village – a huge water collector and cistern for the whole village
The architecture of the village nowadays originates from earlier 18th century and it offers excellent opportunity to see the local rural village layout that dictated the customs as well.
The central part of the village, adorned with the pole for light or a flag, serves as a historical testament to the village’s past. Today, unfortunately, more a parking zone for the modern, tin carriages.
Between the two staircases – the pole of shame; This is where the head of the village would wield authority, overseeing the solemn act of binding a transgressor to the pole. It stands as a tangible reminder of the community’s values and the consequences that were once meted out for those who strayed from the accepted path.
Originally, the fair (originally: tur. dernek) was held in this place – Obor; the central part of the village. The copy of an etching from Venetian sources.
However, curiosities don’t end there. Due to its position on the eastern edge of the Cetina canyon, Zadvarje area features a couple of waterfalls and a hydroelectric power plant that was constructed during the Austro-Hungarian reign.
A sign showing more attractions to see
The karst Cetina canyon
Velika Gubavica waterfall
Walking back to the western side of the village, we spot a bell view point.
No sign of this morning’s Bura and cold. It’s like Spring. The view follows the flow of Cetina river, spreading across the field towards Podgrađe village, but hides something just beneath…
Kraljevac, a power plan from the 1912. – an industrial architecture to be seen. The first power plant on long and powerful Cetina river.
In a world that is ever-changing, where the old often bows to the new, Zadvarje, with its county fair, stands as a guardian of its essence. It’s a symphony that plays on, a bridge between generations that whispers of identity and belonging.
Returning to our car, people honk and wave to us
In the midst of progress, Zadvarje’s fair remains an ageless reminder – that by embracing the past, communities can forge a future that echoes the timeless melodies of tradition, connection, and the enduring bonds of humanity.
We leave Zadvarje in our rearview mirror, full of memories
